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* added INA260 details
* added testing of INA260
* Added details of testing the INA260 in the README
* updated PCA9685 instructions
* typo
* specify wire length for roboclaws
* add explaination of INA260 connections
* use updated image
* add TOC to cut down on scrolling
* fixing link format
* formatting
* easier to trim C32 if installed before J27-29.
* typo on J24 size
* detail on pi connection
* typos
* add info about USBC pwr cord
* fix url
* add info about USBC pwr cord
* revert image change
* renumber figs, remove duplicate
* fix typo, update image
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Note that the images in these instructions are taken from an assembly of the v2.0.1 board. There are minimal differences between v2.0.1 and v2.0.3 - such that it wasn't worth doing another photoshoot for v2.0.3. Make sure to follow the written instructions when in doubt.
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## Table of Contents
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1.[Part References](#1-part-references)
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2.[Schematic and Layout Documentation](#2-schematic-and-layout-documentation)
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3.[Motor Board Assembly](#3-motor-board-assembly)
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4.[Brain Board Assembly](#4-brain-board-assembly)
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5.[Motor Board and Brain Board Mating](#5-motor-board-and-brain-board-mating)
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6.[Testing the PCB and wiring for the Drive Motors](#6-testing-the-pcb-and-wiring-for-the-drive-motors)
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## 1. Part References
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Check out the [BOM documents](control_board/BOM/v2.0.3)
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**Option 1: If you have an INA260 daughter board, you should install that in footprint U1.**
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1. Attach an 8x1 female header to the 8 pins on the bottom side of the INA260 / U1 footprint, as seen in Figure 3.10
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1. Attach an 8x1 female header to the 8 pins on the bottom side of the INA260 / U1 footprint, as seen in Figure 3.10. Note that this is sensing the current on the high side of the power, so PWR on the the Motor Board is connected to Vin+ on the INA260, and Vin- on the INA260 is connected to MMLOAD+, which connects to the main power bus of the rover.
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2. Solder the 8x1 male header pins to the INA260.
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3. Attach a 3x1 female header (cut from a longer Nx1 header) to the two pins on the top side of the INA260 / U1 footprint, as seen in Figure 3.14. You'll need to manually remove the center pin.
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4.Removce the center pin from a 3x1 male header pins, and solder to the INA260.
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4.Remove the center pin from a 3x1 male header pins, and solder to the INA260.
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5. Solder across pads A0 and A1 on the INA260 (to set it to use I2C Address 0x45)
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6. Install M2.5 x 12mm + 6mm standoffs to the side of the INA260 opposite the pins as shown in Figure 3.20
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|:-:|
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| Figure 3.15: INA260 installed |
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**Option 2*: If you don't have one, you will need to bypass U1**
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**Option 2: If you don't have one, you will need to bypass U1**
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TODO: need to update this discussion of bypassing U1 once the layout has been updated
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### 3.7 Install 12V bus regulator U3
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Solder a 5x1 female header to the U3 footprint, and attach an appropriately sized standoff
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TODO: specify standoff
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Solder a 5x1 female header to the U3 footprint, and attach an appropriately sized standoffs (I used an M3x10mm standoff)
Also, 5v power is provided to the PCA9685 through the two holes at the top of the U2 header. You have a couple options for this.
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**Option 1 - Wires**
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**Option 1 - Wires**
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To connect these, I soldered 2 small wire leads on the PCA9685 daughter board, and then soldered them on to the motor board once I installed the PCA9685.
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**Option 2 - 1x1 Pins/Headers
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**Option 2 - 1x1 Pins/Headers**
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The V+ and GND on the PCA9685 don't exactly line up with the GND_motor and +5V_motor pins on the Motor board, but are close enough you can make them connect with two 1x1 pins on the PCA9685 and two 1x1 headers on the Motor board, as shown in figure 3.34.
| Figure 3.32: Components installed, as viewed from top of board |
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| Figure 3.38: Components installed, as viewed from top of board |
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### 3.16 Install Roboclaw standoffs, headers, and capacitors
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Next, solder in the two female headers for each RC footprint. You'll need a 2x10 and a 5x1 for each RC. These should be soldered into the holes on the side of each RC footprint.
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Finally, install the following capacitors for each RC footprint:
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- RC1: capacitors C13,C15,C17,C20 (figure 3.33). Install on the top side of the board.
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- RC2: capacitors C2,C4,C9,C10 (figure 3.34). Install on the underside of the board.
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- RC3: capacitors C14,C16,C18,C21 (figure 3.34). Install on the top side of the board.
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- RC1: capacitors C13,C15,C17,C20 (figure 3.40). Install on the top side of the board.
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- RC2: capacitors C2,C4,C9,C10 (figure 3.39). Install on the underside of the board.
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- RC3: capacitors C14,C16,C18,C21 (figure 3.40). Install on the top side of the board.
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Technically, you can install the capacitors on either side of the board, but it makes for a cleaner presentation if you install them where their respective "C" labels are on the board.
First, wire the 6pos terminal block headers to the roboclaw boards, as indicated in figure 3.36. Cut the wires to about 5cm and tin the ends.
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First, wire the 6pos terminal block headers to the roboclaw boards, as indicated in figure 3.42. Cut the wires to about 5cm and tin the ends.
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Unless you have an older version of the PCB (v2.0.2 or earlier), wire the pins in the J16,J17,J18 headers directly to the pins on the corresponding side of the roboclaw - it is a direct 1-to-1 mapping all the way down, with no wires crossed. Use 16AWG wire (18AWG would also be fine)
Then install the 3 roboclaws in the RC1, RC2, and RC3 footprints. It doesn't matter which roboclaw goes in which footprint - we will later set unique addresses in software for each of them to communicate over the serial bus.
### 3.20 Install corner servo header J19, and capacitor C19
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Make sure to install C19 in the proper direction, as shown in figure 3.39. One side of the capacitor has negative polarity indicators on it, that should be installed opposite the "+" sign on the footprint.
Make sure to align the slightly "chipped"/beveled corner of the LED array with the beveled corner of the U6 footprint, to have proper LED polarity
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| Figure 4.4: J26 (top) and C32 installed on back side of board |
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Trim the leads of C32 before you continue.
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### Install other breakouts on top of board
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Finally, install J27,J28,J29 2x1 female headers in front of the leads of C32
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### 4.5 Install ESTOP and Serial TXD/RXD LED logic circuit components
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### 4.6 Mount the Raspberry Pi board
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Using appropriate standoffs, attach the raspberry pi to the top of the brain board, as shown in figure 4.6
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TODO: identify the parts for the standoffs
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Using appropriate standoffs (M3x6mm+6mm works well, if a bit tight in the Raspberry Pi 5 mounting holes), attach the raspberry pi to the top of the brain board, as shown in figure 4.6. Attach the ribbon cable from the GPIO on the Pi to J22.
__Important Note if you are using a Raspberry Pi 5:__
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The Raspberry Pi (RPi) 5 has different power requirements than previous RPi generations. The two 5v lines attached to the RPi via the ribbon cable are not to enough to adequately power the RPi 5, especially if attaching any peripherals, like a camera. Until further revisions are done to the PCB, it is recommeded to power the RPi 5 through a USB C connector. You can cut a USB C cable and identify the V+ and Ground lines using a digital multimeter, then solder those lines to the 5v and Gnd test connection points on the motorboard. You can then plug the USB C connector into the RPi 5 to power it.
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The Raspberry Pi (RPi) 5 has different power requirements than previous RPi generations. The two 5v lines attached to the RPi via the ribbon cable are not to enough to adequately power the RPi 5, especially if attaching any peripherals, like a camera. Until further revisions are done to the PCB, it is recommeded to power the RPi 5 through a USB C connector. You can cut a USB C cable and identify the V+ and Ground lines using a digital multimeter, then solder those lines to the 5v and Gnd test connection points on the motorboard. You can then plug the USB C connector into the RPi 5 to power it. You can also order USB-C cables with PWR/GND broken out already (see [Extra Parts List](../../parts_list/extra_parts.md))
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Take a look at the [wiring overview](../electrical/wiring/README.md#overview) to get an idea of what you will be building. You'll need crimps and connectors for DuPont, Bullet, XT30, JST, and Molex styles. Crimping doesn't have a 100% success rate, so we recommend getting extras or buying a kit if you're planning on using them for other projects as well. Here are some options for each set you need:
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* A Raspberry Pi ribbon cable, e.g. from [Adafruit](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1988) but available in many places. While you could use header pins for this connection, the cable is the cleanest solution
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* A USB-C power breakout cable if you're using a Raspberry Pi 5, e.g. from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2C74PLY)
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* XT30 connectors for the power connections on the motor PCB.
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* DIY options, either:
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*[5 pairs M/F from Gobilda](https://www.gobilda.com/xt30-connector-pack-fh-mc-x-5-mh-fc-x-5/)
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Take a look at the [wiring overview](../electrical/wiring/README.md#overview) to get an idea of what you will be building. You'll need crimps and connectors for DuPont, Bullet, XT30, JST, and Molex styles. Crimping doesn't have a 100% success rate, so we recommend getting extras or buying a kit if you're planning on using them for other projects as well. Here are some options for each set you need:
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* A Raspberry Pi ribbon cable, e.g. from [Adafruit](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1988) but available in many places. While you could use header pins for this connection, the cable is the cleanest solution
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* A USB-C power breakout cable if you're using a Raspberry Pi 5, e.g. from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2C74PLY)
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* XT30 connectors for the power connections on the motor PCB.
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* DIY options, either:
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*[5 pairs M/F from Gobilda](https://www.gobilda.com/xt30-connector-pack-fh-mc-x-5-mh-fc-x-5/)
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